HomeCNC EDM MachinesHow We Made A Wire EDM Machine At Home

How We Made A Wire EDM Machine At Home

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DIY Wire EDM is finally a reality! This has been on our DIY CNC machine radar for quite some time, and finally we have done it. We added this attachment onto an old DIY CNC Machine. After all, it’s an extremely rigid epoxy granite CNC machine with a perfectly fine X Y Z motion system. We hope that getting a good working Wire EDM machine will help us produce better tolerance cuts in metals for our DIY homemade shop.

While this was just our first round of prototyping, we will continue to work on this DIY Wire EDM machine and turn it into a proper homemade CNC EDM Machine.

Make sure to follow our CNC adventures by hitting the SUBSCRIBE button right away – it helps our channel grow!

Free Design Files: https://actionbox.ca/pages/diy-wire-edm

Power Supply: https://actionbox.ca/products/edm-power-supply
Plastic Parts: https://actionbox.ca/products/wire-edm-plastic-parts
Drive Rollers: https://actionbox.ca/products/drive-rollers

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Check Out These Other Machines We Built:
We built a CNC Machine

We built a Wire EDM

We built an EDM Sinker

We built a Plastic Injection Machine

We built an Anodizing Setup

We built CNC Router

#CNC #machineshop #DIY #epoxy #mill #engineering #machine


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  1. as finicky as a professional-grade wire EDM is that's probably one machine I wouldn't attempt to build. The control is sensing the conditions continually and making adjustments to practically all the parameters. The water typically needs to be within a certain range of resistivity too

  2. In the late 1970s I learned to operate one of the first Wire EDM machines in the US. It was a Elox 100 with 2 axis Fanuc NC that was commanded by paper tape with punched holes. This was so high tech at the time that our tool & die shop became a stop for VIP visits to our city. Wire EDM machines have advanced a very long way from the Elox 100.
    Although many decades have permitted the concepts and components to become more normal I am blown away by the idea of an individual being able to DIY their own wire EDM machine. Very kewl and I'm impressed and envious of any of you that have the ability, resources and space to do this at home. Awesome.

  3. 100% sure is the duty cycle. I have some expertise in FDM.
    You need to have control over 3 properties of Voltage Supply, at least:
    -HIGH interval
    -LOW Interval

    It is ideal to have a voltage ramp controller also.

    I can't say precisely the values because it is right dependent on your setup, you need to run an experiment with these 3 parameters.


  4. You used proper hardware, you soldered everything, and you didn’t use any hot glue. As an engineer, myself, this brought a tear to my eye. I’m so tired of people holding their projects together, with hot glue and a prayer. Then, they wonder why nothing works, or keeps falling apart. You, sir, have gained another subscriber. ??

  5. This video appeared randomly to me, and without context I thought that the machine would be some sequencer or sythesizer to play Electronic Dance Music.

  6. you have to have verry stable no peaking current source.. and also higher voltage coz too much current breake the thin wire.. as i see that sparking you have peaking PSU on H-bridge with high capacity condensators as filter.. beter use EMI at instead of goldcap's…. you need more resistance load PSU intead of inductance.. :))

  7. Beautiful work. I developed a wired Edm in my garage. After a lot of study I learned the fundamental concepts so that the wire does not break. The open and closed load time must be critically controlled for high cutting efficiency. I achieved 90% erosion on the part versus 10% erosion on the electrode or wire. The junction between the advance pulse and the cutting and loading time is the key point for perfect operation. On my channel there is a small video cutting with penetration electrode. When possible I will make some EDM Wire videos to maybe help friends who follow the same path. A hug and good projects broo.

  8. Every time it sparks, it erodes both the target material and the wire… The higher the erosion current, the faster it eats through the wire. Simply increase the feed rate in proportion to the current.

    Also, try reversing the current

  9. Ideally, your advance speed for lateral travel is adjusted to achieve constant (average) current from the EDM supply.

    The wire travel spool speed would be proportional to average current, to replace the wire as it’s used.

    On a commercial modern, not 30 year old machine, the channel may be flushed with ceramic wire guides that provide pressurized fluid at perhaps a hundred to a few hundred psi, albeit at a moderate volume. Mechanical diaphragm pumps of the sort used for a reverse osmosis system would be a good place to start for something economical that can deliver 125 psi or so. (They’re also used for water/methanol injection for turbo/supercharged engines, and you could use a PWM drive on the 12V motor with a pressure sensor with analog output you can find for under $20 for closed loop pressure control).

    It might be feasible to use sapphire or diamond 3D printer nozzles that go for $25-100 each instead of a commercial wire guide as a readily available option. The better purpose built ceramic wire guides are probably$50-100 each at eBay prices, and considerably bulkier than a 3D printer “mark 8” type nozzle that has a M6x1.0 straight thread. If you go that route, make sure to get an adjustable threading die in case you need to chase threads for a precise tight, but not too tight fit.

  10. Very nice prototype!
    But I have a suggestion for you. Why not make a 'chinese' type wire cut machine. It would be much easier and save you a lot of really difficult problems that you must overcome to make a proper wire cut machine.
    The 'chinese' type uses molybdenum wire which is spooled and then re-spooled and used over and over again. You also don't have to submerge the workpiece in dielectric. Just a trickle feed of a soluble oil cutting fluid is enough.
    This really simplifies things as arranging your work holding system is much easier if you don't have to contend with a submerged tank. You also don't have to make a high capacity filtration system and also high pressure flushing, which you will need if you want to use brass wire.
    The spark generator can also be much simpler.
    The disadvantages are accuracy is not as good and surface finish is no where near as good. But you can cut to an accuracy of about 0.01 – 0.02 mm but this is a huge difference to the +/- 0.005mm which you can easily achieve on a good wire edm machine. But of course for this accuracy a huge amount of detailed engineering is required.
    I have worked with Fanuc, Agie and Charmilles wire cut machines for 20 years but we also use chinese machines for simple work. For instance we use them all the time for cutting hardened puches or guide pins also for cutting hardened stock material to near size before hard milling or grinding to final size.
    It may be the way to go to at least fairly quickly getting a wire edm up and running. You would learn a lot and could use the experience to attempt a brass wire machine at a later date.
    I'm sure many people would be more than happy with the accuracy, speed and low running costs from utilising the molybdenum wire method.

  11. looking at your design and the results of the machine trying to cut the bar of steel, I noted a few thoughts on your problem.
    1. Check the power supply, you need to have a frequency of at least 5000 Pulses per minute, with a duty cycle 20, that results in a 20 micro second power on and 180 micro second without power.
    2. On our machines we have found that the de-ionized water must be aimed at the cut and must be flushing the scarf from the cut.
    3. Your feed rate is a function of the amperage, and the wire speed, you need to increase the wire speed.
    4. If you need assistance feel free to contact me.

  12. Hmmmm.
    Your contacting and arcing..
    Lower the energy tremendously. I've seen hone shops mimicking wire EDM using just 12v and 9v lantern batteries and a length of wire.

    Mechanically lower your per step feed on the mill. That should take care of the rest of the issues, but you could also reprogram and rejig your entire mill to take an resistance measurement between the wire and part in between each pulse from your power supply, and only move the minimum step when the resistance reaches an arbitrary threshold.

    Also. The nose radius on your lathe tool will reduce the contact points on your drive rollers to just 1 given just how miniscule your wire is, and multi piece units will provide pinching and unpredictability.
    Save money and effort, just use a shaft. you can put cheap guides between if there is any issues. That's how the big boys toys that manufacture the wire do it.
    And if you have a lathe, just throw standard bearing in said lathe and cut a groove on standard bearings. Again. Thats what the actual wire manufacturing equipment uses.

  13. You guys are amazing I subscribed yesterday I'm watching this video now I wish you were in Portland Oregon and I can I wish I could intern for you so that I can learn how to do this kind of stuff there's no school around that I can afford that can teach what you're showing thank you for what you put out I can't even afford a 3D printer to do this but it is an amazing idea coming from a welding background myself this is awesome this is what it is to be an engineer right sometimes you do it right the first time other times you figure it out that's what I love about engineering

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